Finally, we are realising that, in Ecuador, the length of the bus journey bears no relation to anything they tell you in the bus station: 'Seis horas, no mas' (six hours, no more) could mean anything between 4 and 8 hours. So, when we were told that our ride to Cuenca from Baños would take 6 hours we took it with a perilously large pinch of salt. And were right to do so - we arrived 7 hours later. No bathroom on the bus, we arrived, bursting, in a tiny, bustling town for lunch en route, where there were 2 toilet shacks attached to a cafe serving every part of a pig you could think of (including 'pig leather': pig skin, and the fated animal hung outside, half flayed), with no paper or water for washing hands. Those in the know strolled over to the big concrete sink full of washing up to rinse their hands. Needless to say, we didn't partake of any delicacies there, preferring to tuck into our fruit and nuts - how worthy! Having said this, we love to stop in these little out of the way places, untouched by tourism except for the odd bathroom and snack breaks.
Arriving at our Airbnb apartment very close to the centre, greeted and settled in by a lovely Cuencan family, then off to explore Ecuador's third largest city, after Quito and Guayaquil. It's instantly likeable, a mixture of colonial and modern buildings, bustling and friendly. The climate is quite cool, sunny days, cool mornings and evenings and some rainfall in the afternoon/evening.
Cuenca is big on churches
The old cathedral, now an art and cultural centre
So many people eking out a living from selling a few items
The City's daily flower market
These petals are on sale for use in the bath... Just lovely
Window shopping, Cuenca style
Someone get this woman some Immac!
Painted trompe l'oeil lantern
Street art in Cuenca
Park bench
Bread oven in a local bakery - the loaf we bought here was delicious... And not sweet, unlike most bread in Central and South America
Cuenca is famously the home of the Panama Hat, which originated in Ecuador, not Panama! We visited the fascinating Homero Ortega Museum, factory and shop, where the hats are produced and shipped worldwide. Homero Ortega founded the business and it is now run by his sons, daughter and other family members.
Model of hatmaker in the museum - the hats are made from cactus fibre
Hat moulds
Panama hats!
Worker moulding the hats
These are made from cactus fibre, too
The many different styles for sale in the shop - prices ranged from $30 to over $300
There are numerous photographs around the museum and shop of celebrities wearing their Homero Ortega Panama hats. We had fun trying them on, but couldn't buy one, alas.
We passed an interesting couple of hours in the Pumapungo Museum, with its vast collection of models and costumes of the various indigenous cultures of Ecuador and...real shrunken heads!
The Andy Pandy meets Tony the Tiger look, always a winner
A genuine shrunken head, complete with James Brown 'do!
Tempting, but we preferred the tasty menu del dia in the veggie cafes
A good few days in Cuenca, just strolling around, sitting in the square enjoying delicious coconut and blackberry ice cream, and good, cheap tasty vegetarian food in the little cafes, visiting museums and just taking in the town's atmosphere.
Vilcabamba
Next, south to our little mountain retreat in Vilcabamba. We took the 4 hour bus ride to Loja, then another hour and a half to the little town of Vilcabamba, known variously as the Valley of Eternal Youth, Valley of Longevity, Valley of Eternal Spring and .......Valley of the Fruitloops.
Inhabitants of Vilcabamba are said to be among the longest-lived in the world, many apparently reaching 3 digits. The subject of numerous studies, their longevity is attributed to a combination of constant, temperate climate, virtually no industry in the town (so clean air), an abundance of locally grown fresh fruit and vegetables and good physical condition due to the mostly outdoor, farm labouring and domestic work. The taxi driver who drove us up from the town along the bumpy unmade road to our mountainside casita told us that his father, died last year, aged 127, and was the second oldest person in the town - the oldest is 131!! So that explains the first 2 monikers.
Youngsters by Vilcabamba standards
Valley of Eternal Spring.... The climate is temperate sub-tropical. At a lower altitude than other cities in the Andes, the temperature in Vilcabamba ranges year round from 13 to 24 degrees C (55 to 75 degrees F), which many believe to be ideal.
Valley of the Fruit Loops - there are many 'alternative' types among the ex-pats (and travellers) offering massage, Reiki, chakra and aura cleansing, permaculture, cleansing juices, San Pedro ceremonies (a hallucinogenic cactus) etc etc and plain old hippies wearing flowing or colourful clothes and macrame jewellery, which many sell on the main plaza, while others twirl barefoot, play drums and other musical instruments or do poi. Many come to the land of the sacred wilco tree for spiritual enlightenment. The name 'Vilcabamba' comes from the Quichua huilco pamba, meaning 'plain of the wilco tree'.
Another name could be 'Valley of the US retirees' - when we visited Vilcabamba 13 years ago there seemed to be very few foreign residents. However, a few years ago, the town was listed in a US magazine as a top retirement destination, due to the climate, relatively cheap cost of living, ease of access to residency status, cheap land etc and North Americans in their 'golden years' flocked to the town and set up home. We talked, in Spanish, to a friendly taxi driver, who, gesturing to the big houses on the hillside, told us of the ex-pats who buy up land and sell it at a huge profit, buy second homes and are hardly ever there and of locals who were employed in the construction boom a few years ago, building homes for foreigners. But the boom is over, they have no more work and, if they are lucky, find work driving one of the 40 pickup taxis in this small town (wonder how this will affect the longevity in years to come). The local wage for agricultural and domestic workers is about $400 a month, with many earning less than this amount. Therefore, the divide between the 'rich' ex-pats and the locals is huge. To put it into perspective, local people earn in one day what many ex-pats would spend on lunch, as they comment on how cheap it is to live here. Many don't bother to learn Spanish, either, further reducing opportunities for integration.
Though, to be fair, we're sure that there are some ex-pats who speak good Spanish, who are working here (we've come across some digital nomads) and raising children who attend the local schools, and are part of the community. They're just not as visible.
Determined to travel more slowly, we've rented for a month, for a very reasonable cost, a casita above the town, on a mountain called 'Yasanga'. 'Cabaña Morada' (purple cabin) has absolutely stunning views, and, aside from the housesitter in the main, owners' house, has no near neighbours.
Path to the cabin
Cabaña Morada
The cabaña's bedroom area
The view from the cabaña - it changes by the minute
Watching the changing light from the terrace is a favourite pastime. On sunny mornings a squadron of dragonflies flits past, catching insects on the wing.
Stunning sunsets
And frequent rainbows (quick - where's that pot of gold? No more hostels!!)
Clouds nestling on the hills and in the valley
The gorgeous dog, T-Man
Sweet-natured T-Man, the owners' dog. He adores romping in the hills with us, and lounging on the sofa on the terrace outside the cabina.
Anna and T-Man relaxing on the terrace
.....the lovely cat, Luigi, who hangs out by the big (owners') house...
.... And cockerel, Sir Gustavo, and his harem
Stick insect on the terrace
And resident centipede in the bathroom
This frog was in Alan's boot on the first morning
Ripening bananas on the property
As well as bananas, there are lemons, maracuyas, naranjillas, tree tomatoes, avocados, tomatoes, peas, lemon verbena, lemongrass, mint, rosemary, oregano, basil, kale, flat leaf parsley and other herbs, in addition to coffee and corn, and eggs from the chickens. We've been eating the fruit and cooking and making teas with the herbs, also making hair rinses from rosemary and aloe vera gel (who knew that aloe vera gel sometimes turns pink before your very eyes?!). Very Good Life.
Coffee fruits drying in the sun
The very agile and industrious 71 year old worker, Don Ramon
... And his daughter, Carmen, with her daughter, Liliana, working at the chicken coop
Don Ramon's 'wheels'
Don Ramon often comes to work on his donkey, which he 'parks' on the grass outside the property. We asked him what its name was and he scratched his head, looked bemused and replied 'um...Burrito?' (little donkey).
Naranjillas from the garden - great in juices
A tree tomato (tomate de arbol), tastes sour-sweet, also good in juice
Some eucalyptus leaves, gathered on our walks and woven together
.... And ditto with some grasses
It's a joy to have some time and a comfortable place in which to do stuff like this. Also to read, listen to music and gaze at the view.
Alan being crafty outside the cabaña
And snuggling up with T-Man after a long walk in the hills
Caterpillar on the trail
Flowering bromeliad
A few of the hundreds of butterflies on the mountain paths
Rainbow clad hill
View of the town from above, taken on one of our walks
The cabin is a 12 minute taxi ride up the mountain from the town, or a 70 minute walk. We love walking down the mountain, along the stony road, then off on the narrow, sometimes sunken track, then riding back in the taxi with our shopping bags.
Abundant pink grass lends a rosy hue to the mountains
Flowers on the hillside
Jewel-like seed pods
Wow, this place is beautiful
Morning clouds
More sunsets
And a sunrise
The mountain, Mandango
View across the valley towards the town
T-Man again, loving one of our really long walks on the mountain trails
One happy pup!
He's such a delightful dog, a joy to take for a walk (except the time when he decided to chase some cows - luckily, he came back to us when we called him, and before he'd sustained any injury - thank goodness we didn't have to explain that one to his owners! Oh, and the time he took exception to a big man, on a big horse with a big machete and a big dog... ). He's been responsible for maintaining our fitness levels and keeping us from just staring at the view every day - thanks, T-Man!
Trailing way behind the dog
Funky fungus
Butterflies mating in the little dell on our favourite T-Man walking trail
A horseman riding by
Bucolic scene from the path down to the town
Guard pig
Campsis growing on a wall near the town
The church on the main plaza in Vilcabamba
Chilling by the fountain on the main plaza
The Sunday market
There's an organic market in Vilcabamba, near the bus station, every Saturday, which consists of a couple of stalls selling locally grown veg, herbal teas and granola at very high prices. On Sundays there's a 'normal' vegetable market, with mostly local campesinos selling their fruit and veg. Being a dollar economy, the cost of living in Ecuador seems quite high to us, compared with other Latin American countries, and especially for gringos. Most of the fruit and veg are priced at 'un dollar', so by the time you've bought enough for a few meals, you've spent quite a bit. A taxi driver told us that there's a market in a neighbouring village, with fewer ex-pats, which is much cheaper.
Beans bought in the market, such beautiful colours
Eating out, too, is more expensive in Vilcabamba than in other parts of Ecuador. We miss our menu del dia. There are a few non-touristy, local cafes which serve a cheap almuerzo (lunch), but it's very traditional Ecuadorean fare, and therefore meaty, so alas, not for us.
Locals playing bingo near the plaza - the counters are pieces of corn
Bees' nest in the courtyard of United Falafel Organisation (UFO)
We have, however, enjoyed several falafel plates in UFO cafe in town.... Delicious accompanied by their special spicy fried yuca chips with homemade garlic mayo and aji dips (aji is a fiercely hot chilli pepper).
And so, for this post's recipe:
Spicy yuca fries
Yuca is a root vegetable, also called cassava, and is available in continental and Asian supermarkets back in the UK. It's starchy, like a potato and in appearance is a long, brown wrinkly thing:
Yuca
These fries are extremely moreish and we love the way they're cooked in UFO, dipped in a spicy mix before frying. They could also be cooked in the oven, but this is a luxury we rarely have while travelling. Ours were not quite as good as UFO's, but apparently their yucas come from the Amazon!
Ingredients:
2 large yucas, washed thoroughly
Garam masala, or curry powder, to coat
Oil for frying
A little sea salt
Method:
Peel the yucas, then slice them lengthways, discarding any of the fibrous core and black strands
Cut each slice into thick, fry-sized pieces
Boil the pieces gently for about 15 minutes, checking regularly so that they are tender, but not gooey
Strain thoroughly and dry
Heat oil (about 1mm deep) in a frying pan until hot, but not smoking
Gently place the boiled yuca pieces into the oil, they should sizzle
As they cook, sprinkle a little of the garam masala (curry powder) over the fries
When one side is golden brown, flip them gently (we use tongs) and repeat until all sides are done
Remove from the pan and drain, sprinkle with a little sea salt
Serve with garlic mayo...and an aji (hot) sauce, if you dare!
Buen provecho - enjoy!
Shops around the plaza in the laid back town
Epiphytes on telegraph wires in town
Argentinian couple's 2CV - they're travelling from Mexico back to Argentina in this!
***29th May 2016 - one nomadic year so far***
This was a beautiful place to celebrate our 1st anniversary on the road - one whole year!!! It's gone so quickly, yet we've seen and done so much. We've travelled 5970 miles, seen and stayed in some amazing places: deserts, beaches, cenotes, jungles, mountains, cities and villages, and met some fantastic, inspirational and friendly people (and animals). Who knows what Year 2 will bring?
...With the help of this triple rainbow! Muchismo gracias! (You can't quite see the 3rd as it had faded by the time we grabbed the camera)
Living up on the mountainside was great, though it was a particular experience of the area. As I already mentioned, we travelled into town a few times a week, hiking down, then taking the taxi back up, with groceries from the little mini supermarkets or the weekly market. We decided to treat ourselves one day, too, and had a massage at Izchcayluma, a posh hostel with a swimming pool and spa, just outside town. Our full body massages set us back the princely sum of $22 each.
We'd also read about a nature reserve on the outskirts of town, Rumi Wilco, where for a donation of $2 it's possible to hike all of the several trails. The project of a biologist Argentinian couple, the reserve aims to conserve the local flora and fauna. We visited on a Saturday, walked one of the beautiful trails and decided on-the-spot to book to stay overnight the following Monday in the Pole House, a rustic, wooden cabina by the river, set apart from the other accommodation.
The Pole House at Rumi Wilco
The interior: all mod cons!
View from the window: nothing but trees, such a contrast with our mountain view
... And the outside shower, with hot water!
Papaya tree outside the house
Carnivorous pitcher plant near the cabin
The Rio Chamba flows through the reserve and a few metres from the cabina
Sunset, through the trees
Then dinner by the firepit
The next day was spent hiking the trails, high above the canopy, and down again to the riverside, surrounded by butterflies which were completely unperturbed by our presence, ceiba trees in fragrant flower and draped with old man's beard, raptors soaring above and stunning geological features. In the evening we ate by the firepit, glimpsing owls and spiders' eyes in the beams of our headtorches. The only sounds were the rushing river and the gentle breeze through the the trees, with the occasional tantalising screech of a bird and rustle on the riverbank.
Huge San Pedro cactus
Spiky ceiba (kapok) tree trunk
The base of the enormous ceiba tree
Stunning landscape above the reserve
Raptors soared above
Huge orb spider webs crisscrossed the paths
As we descended into the valley we became entangled in hundreds of orb spiders' webs, before emerging into a dell, absolutely teeming with butterflies.
One of the thousands of glass wing butterflies on the trail
Plus dozens of other types:
And a cute bug
We were so glad that we chose to spend a night in the reserve. It gave us a different perspective on,vand experience of, the area around Vilcabamba. While the view from our mountain cabina is undeniably beautiful, the deforestation is quite shocking.
Another view of magnificent Mandango
Back to the house from our final walk
......to see a sunset and a rainbow
Gorgeous to the end......
