Preparing to leave one country for the next is always a time of mixed emotions, especially when the country we're leaving is as captivating as Colombia. Logistics such as co-ordinating transport and accommodation, ensuring that we find good exchange rates for any remaining currency and that of the country we're travelling to, having enough new currency to buy us ongoing travel tickets and a cuppa, but not so much that we feel vulnerable, as borders are dodgy places. Plus, taking into account requirements of the country we're travelling to, such as proof of onward travel and sufficient funds, and vaccinations. In the midst of all this it's essential to ensure that we obtain all the necessary stamps and complete all the forms and that the visa stamp for the country we're entering allows maximum time there (see poor Gabriel's salutary experience in the Bogota (2) post!). Sometimes, too, we discover that it's difficult to obtain certain items, such as reasonably priced sunblock, in our next destination, so we need to stock up before we travel.
We took a chance on the night bus from Popayan to Ipiales, near the Ecuadorian border. We'd heard and read reports that it was dangerous to travel this route at night, due to robberies and hairy roads, but enquiries of other travellers, the bus company, tourist police and online blogs suggested that it was safer nowadays. We thankfully arrived without incident (apart from the usual night bus gripes, with the added bonus of having to sit near the smelly toilet as all the seats nearer the front were taken. Ho hum).
Sipping sweet black coffee in a tiny cafe in the chill of the early morning, an Argentian woman approached us to share a taxi to the border. We wanted to visit a spectacularly located church just before the border, she didn't, and told us that if we wanted to see it, she'd come with us, but we'd have to pay the fare - she wouldn't contribute. Hang on a minute, cheeky chica ...... !
Las Lajas
View from the church
Shame we were too early for the shops - we'd love one of these!
We'd imagine that the area leading up to the church was thronging during the day, with many little shops selling religious icons and candles, but, at 6.30am it was ghostly quiet. We'd love to have seen one of these magic cups; when filled with hot liquid an image of the Virgin appears.
We were glad that we stopped to look at this very picturesque and interesting church before finally leaving ever-surprising Colombia. So was our new Argentinian friend, who bounced around taking loads of photos, and commenting enthusiastically on the setting and architecture, but she still declined to pay her share of the cost of this very worthwhile side trip. Funny.
Banned items at immigration - phew, glad we went for the fake wayfarers, not the aviators
Customs security point
We're in! Welcome to Ecuador (and sad to leave Colombia)
The horror stories we'd heard about the bureaucracy, endless queues and chaos on the Ecuadorian side were nowhere in evidence and we walked straight through, having acquired our 90 day stamp, welcomes and smiles from the immigration officials.
So, Ecuador. We were here 13 years ago. It was the first destination of our year out, from April 2003. It's difficult to avoid comparisons; between countries and between our previous trip and this. But a lot can happen in 13 years and we enjoyed Ecuador for just a few weeks last time. Sitting on the bus from the border to Otavalo, the little town famed for its huge artisan market, that we were in a different country was obvious. Sadly, the passengers on the bus didn't greet each other when they boarded, as they do in Colombia, but there was a similar profusion of vendors getting on and off the bus, many telling their story about a sick or disabled relative, or unemployment and therefore poverty, as they implore passengers to buy mints, caramels, little key rings etc. The countryside was majestic: mountain peaks and valleys.
Little box of mints from a vendor on the bus
Another difference was that passengers in Ecuador don't seem to tolerate erratic driving - following a swerve and the screech of brakes, highly common and unremarked upon in Colombia as the driver tailgates perilously, passengers here shouted firmly 'Suave, amigo' ('gently, friend'). There was also the usual, blaring, obligatory video, but bizarrely showing an incredibly sexually explicit film to a bus filled with families with small children, at 8.30am. No-one batted an eyelid.
Otavalo
This little town, high in the Andes and surrounded by volcanoes, was our first stop in Ecuador. For hundreds of years it has hosted a weekly handicrafts market, the largest in South America. For our first few nights we stayed in the centre of town, in a basic but friendly hotel, before moving on to an Airbnb cabaña a little outside town.
Our first hotel was on this little street
Our first hotel, grandiosely named 'Otavalo Prince' had a great terrace with views of the mountains.
View from the covered roof terrace where we ate our breakfast
One evening, sitting in our room in the hotel, we heard what sounded like a parade in the street outside. Looking out from our little balcony, we saw groups of indigenous people walking below, playing instruments and carrying guinea pigs and chickens tied by their legs from poles, squirming and wriggling in a tragi-comic dance to the music, and all headed up by a young bullock with a big bow on his head. We rushed down the stairs to have a closer look. It was a very festive affair (though not for the poor guinea pigs and chickens!). The groups of people, mostly in traditional costume, but some younger members wearing jeans and hoodies, stopped at every crossroads to dance. We asked a man watching in the street what was going on and he explained that this was to celebrate an engagement; the couple would be marrying in a week's time. The animals were gifts for the wedding feast. Otavalo has one of the biggest indigenous populations in the country and, unlike many other countries in Latin America, there are many wealthy indigenous businessmen- and women riding around the town in shiny new SUVs.
Otavalo Market
Woven belts as worn by indigenous women
This man wove name bracelets to request, in just a couple of minutes
Llamadoodles
We visited the market in 2003 and were sorry to find that many of the stalls now sell mass-produced stuff, some of it cheap imports, which was not the case last time we were here. Shame. The quality does not seem as good as it was. Alan bought a shirt when we were here before which is still going strong!
Agato, to visit the workshop of a master weaver, Miguel Andrango. Agato is a rural indigenous village, with a few shops and agricultural land and pasture.
'Elegance' hatmaker in the middle of this remote rural village, Agato
One of the many very hairy pigs in Agato's fields and gardens
At Miguel Andrango's workshop - where the dyeing of the wool takes place
Looking at the various natural dyes and the wonderful old, traditional equipment
Master weaver Miguel Andrango outside his workshop
The workshop
Rain dripped through the roof onto our heads as Miguel and his daughter explained and demonstrated the weaving process, from sheep to finished piece. All the dyes used are natural: indigo, plants, roots etc. The methods they use have remained unchanged for centuries. Miguel is famous in the weaving world and has travelled to New York and New Mexico to lecture and exhibit his art. He, his daughter and son-in-law are passionate about their work and weaving in general and were so welcoming.
The backstrap, made of cactus fibre, and the loom
Miguel and his daughter, winding the wool in preparation for weaving
Miguel's son-in-law
The whole family weaves, including the children, so the tradition will happily continue.
Just look at this exquisite piece
As readers of our blog will know, we have carry-on size backpacks only and an even smaller budget, so we were unable to buy any of the beautiful blankets, bags, table runners, ponchos etc for sale, but the quality and beauty of the pieces was breathtaking as we entered the Aladdin's cave that was their little shop. We took the opportunity to admire them all as we waited for the taxi, which Miguel's daughter in law had insisted on phoning for us, giving the driver strict instructions to charge us locals' fare. What a heartwarming experience.
Roundabout at the road leading in to Otavalo
Little shop selling all things sugary, complete with sugar cane arch doorway
Aptly named funeral directors
The sprawling town of Otavalo
On the hike up to the park - Nile Rogers was sadly out of town
Um, which way to Parque Condor?
The hike to Parque Condor, a rescued bird of prey and conservation centre, and El Lechero, a sacred tree, was a great experience, with far-reaching views over Otavalo, three volcanoes and the surrounding countryside. On the way, once a helpful local had pointed us in the right direction, we passed a group of young men near a football pitch, about 15 years old and absolutely steaming drunk, at 11 o' clock on a Sunday morning. Luckily, they were friendly and offered us some of their 'tequila' from plastic water bottles, which we graciously declined.
5 a side with a stunning view
The hike to the park was quite arduous due to the altitude. Luckily, a family from Quito were also visiting and kindly stopped to offer us a ride for the last kilometre or so in the back of their pickup - Muchas gracias!
Bouncer at the Parque Condor - fierce little owl ready for reintroduction to the wild
We watched a raptor show with a strong conservation message, which, although touristy, was very interesting. The birds are rehabilitated and released into the wild wherever possible.
Delicious traditional local treats for lunch
There was a little kitchen at the bird park, selling local very tasty food: habas (big beans) choclo tostado (toasted corn) and queso del campo (local country cheese) with a home-made hot sauce....
....In a very picturesque setting
Local woman walking across the fields to town
Legend has it that El Lechero, this big tree on top of a hill, and Lago San Pablo, below it, are the remains of two lovers from ancient rivalling families. In their attempt to escape to live happily together they were caught, and the hapless lovers were turned into the tree and lake, always to remain side by side.
Otavalo twinkling below, from our cabina just outside the town
Cockle-warming - burning bits of wood from the garden in the fireplace: mucho nippy at night!
We moved into our Airbnb cabina, which was rustic to say the least, and quite grubby (we spent 2 hours cleaning the cooker and kitchen) but we were thrilled to notice a hummingbird flying in and out of the little bush outside the front door. Peering into the nest from the front window, two little eggs, like mint imperials, could be spotted when mum was off searching for food. Our wish to see the eggs hatch was fulfilled! The tiny hatchlings looked like little naked purple peas. Unfortunately we couldn't get a photo as it was too dark in the nest and we didn't want to disturb mum. We made do with spying through the window and were amazed to see tiny gaping beaks in expectation of a delicious regurgitated bug or two (apparently hummingbirds, usually nectar-feeders, provide bugs for their newborns for the first week). What a privilege.
Mum hummingbird sitting on her hatchlings
South to Quito, capital city on the equator
After our recent positive experience in a South American capital city, Bogota, on we travelled to Ecuador's capital, Quito, with high hopes. Like Bogota, it's sprawling, polluted, and very busy. At 2850 metres above sea level, it's the second highest capital city (after Bolivia's La Paz). However, we did not find the vibe we were hoping for, the historic Old Town was disappointing and it just didn't float our boat. There was a nice park, though, and our little room with kitchen area was in an interesting area and we passed a pleasant enough few days, though had we not booked 5 nights in our accommodation, based on what we'd read and heard about the city and how much time we'd need there, we would have moved on sooner.
Our funky apartment building
Our Quito hood
Based on our Bogota experience, rather than opting for out of town, we stayed just outside the backpacker area, La Mariscal, also known as Gringolandia. We found a couple of great local places for breakfast, though, devoid of gringos, with fresh fruit juice and coffee, cheese filled croissants and scrambled egg for $2.50 each. We soon became known by the lovely owner/chef.
We also found a cafe run by indigenous people, where we enjoyed the Ecuadorian speciality, bolones de verde, so tasty, and accompanied by home-made hot chocolate. Not for calorie watchers!
This blog's recipe:
Bolones de verde, served on a palm leaf, in cosy Kallari (see the big cocoa pod)
Bolones de verde (or fried green plantain dumplings)
Ingredients
- 4 green plantains, peeled and cut into medium sized chunks
- 4-5 tbs butter
- 2 tbs sunflower oil
- 1 tbsp hot pepper or chilli powder
- 1 tsp cumin
- 1 cup grated cheese
- Salt to taste
Method
- Melt the butter or over medium heat in a large pan
- Add the plantain chunks and cook for about 40 minutes or until very soft, turning them about every 10 minutes. They should be slightly golden, but not too crisp
- Sprinkle the cooked plantains with the chilli powder, cumin and salt
- Transfer the plantain pieces to a bowl while they are still hot and mash them until soft and doughy
- Form balls a bit smaller than a tennis ball
- Make a hole in the middle of each ball and fill it with the cheese, gently pressing the filling into the hole. Cover the filling and reshape it back into a ball shape.
- Heat the oil over high heat, add the stuffed plantain dumplings and fry them until they are golden and crispy
- Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain the oil and serve immediately.
In Kallari, they serve the bolones with a tasty pesto made with chopped coriander leaves and walnuts.. Yum.
Candy floss seller near the touristy artisan market on George Washington Street
Unreconstucted fast food chain
Tailor's shop in La Floresta area
Can you see what it says below 'Abysmo'? Not quite the same as 'nectar of the gods' eh?
View to the Cerro (hill) from the Old Town
A reputed 7 tonnes of gold in the Compañia Church in the Old Town, that's a lotta bling
The impressive doorway
The bells, the bells......
A footsore Señor King awaiting a fine cup of coffee after hours of walking in the city
The famous Calle La Ronda, in the Old Town
The Calle La Ronda is an area of cafes, little shops and arty places. It was ok, but still seemed a bit artificial and too touristy. For a pair of Londoners, we seem to be losing our city slicker credentials!
Installation art in a gallery in Calle La Ronda
It's been a while now since we've been immersed in warm water, so we took a day trip to the thermal springs at Papallacta. 'Easy' said the apartment building's concierge, 'just take a bus from the terminal to the Supermaxi supermarket, then another bus to the springs'. So, four buses and 5 hours later, we arrived. Being a Monday, there were very few other soakers and we had a good time in the various pools, emerging refreshed and pink, and with new friends from Quito. They insisted that we took a lift with them back to the City. Sooooo glad we did - the skies opened, thunder and lightning raged and the streets flooded. Funny and very friendly, the family of mum and dad and adult daughter, refused to take a contribution towards the petrol, dropping us off very near our apartment. They told us that their little childen's clothes shop had been damaged in the recent earthquake - the shop windows had been broken and they were terrified.
In the river for a cool-off after lazing in the hot pools at Papallacta
Mmm, hot soothing waters... Do we have to get out?
Flooded streets on the outskirts of Quito
Satnav failing to take account of the river-like streets - the lovely Quito family navigating the floods
Next stop, Mindo, in the Cloudforest. We have great hopes for this little town, as, so far, Ecuador has not lived up to our expectations.....It's beautiful, but expensive and, for the most part, unwelcoming. Fingers crossed.....
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